Spring/summer 19’ | The NEW identity of fashion trends
The works of Italian film masters Frederico Fellinio, Luchino Visconti, Michelangelo Antonioni and Pieru Paolo Pasolinio could never generalized in any way. Same goes with Italian fashion, which could even be identified by Fellini's movie titles. For example, ”La Dolce Vita” (“The sweet life”) speaks of the refined, elegant, chic Italian fashion, whereas the movie “Roma” speaks of free, eccentric, open and very bold fashion. Other movies could be identified by or compared to a modern and bright personality. Italian fashion is just like movies - controversial and unexpected. So this season, DOLITA presents you with the image of a different woman with a different personality. As F.Fellini says: “A woman is something we can’t find within ourselves…”. This is completely true.
This season, the DOLITA collection balances the impressionist, flowery, Latin American culture with futurism. The modern woman no longer spends her weekends romantically in a park with a novel in her hands. Instead, she enjoys gourmet snacks and reads the newest edition of Gentlewomen. This woman no longer squeezes herself into uncomfortable and tight dresses and spends her evenings at snobby ballets. Instead, she chooses massive sneakers to go with her black dress and powerfully claps at the end of a modern ballet, inspired by the works of F. Kafka. And, finally, this woman is no longer someone who wishes to get a bouquet of roses, but rather someone who would rather get a pair of designer shoes or a handbag.
Fashion is going through an exciting period of change. The trends that prevailed for several years are now dying and since the newest directions have not yet been formed, there’s lots of freedom and experimenting, although some newest trends still lack precise names. In the chain of the newest trends, you will find that “Ugly sneakers”, “Dad sneakers” and transformer shoes prevail. These are on the top of the list of this season’s trends.
“Transformer shoes” have been popular for a few seasons now and they’re not expected to step off of the podiums anytime soon. We know this because we already have quite a few plans for the autumn season although we’re now launching the new spring/summer collection. But more on that later.
This season, these shoes are dominant in many collections. Quite eclectic, visually massive models are present in Vic Matie, Raf Simons, RBRSL, Beyond, Fru.it, MyGrey, Premiata Sneakers, Laura Bellariva collections. Massive, geometric shapes are reminiscent of a perfectly cast metal space ship.
The newest feature in the Vic Matie collection is the transparent rubber sole. An allusion of future fashion? Absolutely. In this collection, you’ll also find a combination of transparent rubber and plastic, combined with elastic textile. Is the so-called “space age” returning? Yes.
New at DOLITA - the collaboration between Belgian designer Raf Simons and Adidas. Raf debuted as a designer in 2005 when he became the chief designer at the Jil Sander fashion house. In 2012, he became the chief designer of the Dior fashion house. In 2016, he became the main designer at Calvin Klein and now, he is continuing his own fashion line in collaboration with other brands. The extremely popular collaboration with Adidas began in 2013. Raf Simons x Adidas is the reflection of futuristic romance. Retro sneakers are being transformed into cosmic shapes. Raf Simons has created true masterpieces from classic running shoes: unearthly colors and mirrory sparkles.
RBRSL models are like true pieces of art created by unearthly creatures. Paradoxically, these models were created by Italian designers and shoe masters. The fluid-like rubber makes it possible for unexpected and unique shapes to be created.
Lots of new things at Beyond as well. Designers are combining exclusive comfort (the insole is created of orthopedic cork) with futuristically-shaped soles. Extremely light, comfortable and bold.
Fru.it and MyGrey are playing with a technical satin, which makes us feel like we’ve traveled to space. The fabrics are just like astronaut costumes and the shapes are just like space ships.
Premiata Sneakers features a new shape and logo - inspired by the Marche region. Laura Bellariva leisure shoes are massive and feature laminated silver leather.
Blush. Coral. Red.
Let’s return to the romantic image of an Italian woman. The Pantone Color Institute has chosen coral and all of its shades as the color of 2019. Reminds you of vacation? Absolutely.
This year, designers put lots of thought on color. But make no mistake, these colors aren’t necessarily romantic. They can be bold, dominant and very modern.
Coral and red are represented through modern shapes in Halmanera, RBRSL, Premiata Sneakers collections.
A burst of neon
It’s night-time. Flash In The Night by Secret Service is playing in the background. And then, the “neon generation” appears in the city lights. Bright, free, stylish, full of lust for life, happiness, inspiration, and creativity. The “neon generation” boldly stepped into the fashion trend lists in the fall. However, this season, it shines like never before.
Sometimes, it seems that Italians never use such colors in their collections or in their personal wardrobes. But STOP! This season, Premiata offers a very bold pink combined with zebra fur! See? A completely new Italian touch.
Do you think it’s too bold? Well, just try it on!
Strange heels? High class!
Architect Zaha Hadid has said, “There are 360 degrees, so why do we limit ourselves to just a few?”. This also applies to fashion shapes - fashion never has, isn’t, and never will be limited. This year, a bright new heel fashion trend has emerged - geometric shapes.
Tipe e Tacchi
From shapes reminiscent of LEGO pieces to architectural or even jewellery shapes.
This season, such shapes predominate in Strategia, Ixos, Halmanera, Vic Matie, Premiata, Tipe e Tacchi collections. Metal, inlaid with decorative details, hollow, cone and funnel shaped.
Tipe e Tacchi
Pierre-Auguste Renoir, like other impressionists, developed Plein Air paintings, portrayed melting shapes with no clear contours and gave up the local color palette. Even in his graphic works, he was able to capture the changing natural phenomena. However, he was different from the abundance of impressionists because he “dedicated” his work to man. Renoir learned to observe and admire the feminine charm, playfulness, and emphasize the attractiveness of everyday life. We can talk so much about this romantic period and gaze at the works of art for hours and hours. Same goes with exclusive works of fashion.
Flowers are dominant in most collections. It seems that impressionist paintings are transferred to spaces, bright galleries in the most stylish areas of Milan, Berlin or New York. Romance connects with the urban spirit of the city. In the background, we can see the image of a woman: “A woman with sneakers and a huge bouquet of wildflowers in the SoHo district”.
Flowers are dominant in Chie Mihara, Fru.it, Flower Mountain, Premiata Sneakers, Pretty Ballerinas collections.
Maya, Inca and Aztecs
The people of Central and South America spent most of their time barefoot, but constant injuries forced them to look for ways to control the land of rugged terrain. Warriors of Mayan, Inca and Aztec tribes wore various types of sandals. They were made from goat, llama or sheepskin, and the feet were wrapped in plant fibers or fabric strips.
This season, designers are turning to South American countries. And with good reason. Just look at how many colors and patterns they have! In this footwear, Mola motifs are dominant (an art of the Kuna tribe), traditional “inclusions” from Peru, knitted elements, woven leather details from Bolivian traditional clothing, tattoos, ritual masks, feathers and colors of flora and fauna typical of the region.
Such patterns, colors, motifs of woven jute and raffia are dominant in Ink, Moma, Premiata, Premiata Sneakers, Voile Blanche, Tippe E Tachi and other collections.
Tipe e Tacchi
The new Iron Age
Although we review dozens of footwear trends and “must-have” lists, “metal luster” isn’t leaving the spotlight anytime soon. Polished, metalized, foil-covered leather, decorative details and more. All of this is very bright this season.
However, the luster isn’t just silver but also copper, matte, mirror, aged, painted in purple and pink. Also, pay attention to the textures. The metalized surfaces create optical illusions. And these shoes are pretty much like a black dress - they never go out of fashion.
100 meters from the sea
Italian resorts, such as Puglia, Syracuse, Amalfi, Lake Como, Positano and other towns are attracting more and more tourists. In these resorts, you will discover old traditions, the evergreen nature, tan tourists, sea waves and beautiful colors that you will only see in this sunny region. Oh, Italy! When we close our eyes, we feel the breeze, the sun kisses, and the pistachio-flavored ice cream with a strong espresso.
Vacation means freedom and comfort. The aesthetics of comfort are not restricting but stylish. This is where soft leather slippers predominate. These, along with a long dress and a stylish hat will help you create the true image of a fancy Italian vacation.
Fashion is most interesting to the public when the topics it deals with are close to everyday conversations on the street. The Millennium Generation's nostalgia was reflected in the new list of trends and new shapes and colors that still haven’t been given precise names. Updated or completely new footwear fashion trends tend to gradually overwrite the pages of Italian fashion history: new, unseen, bold and ambitious to do otherwise than before. Does this mean that the trademark identity is fundamentally changing? Partly, yes, because the new generation is gradually creating new rules. On the other hand, trademarks follow their invaluable wealth of knowledge and the “Made in Italy” philosophy which is impossible to define in one sentence.
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