The new season‘s stories which we will talk about all year round, just as we talk about good movies after leaving the cinema or reading the novel: as if we live in them, feel and incarnate. The new season could be named the way that the director Federico Fellini named his movie „City of Women “. Because women he creates are romantic, but they do not forget secret weapons and passion.
For a long time we have not had such an active season full of interesting stories: some developers produced stories unexpected even for themselves, in which they intertwined ethnic and gothic motifs, others dedicated their collections to subcultures, still others plunged into romantic reality; others broke away from commerciality and imposed the need to create not only footwear but also an attitude.
We do not want to show just trends or just footwear created by us, we want to show an attitude “. As if by agreement, for several seasons designers have been creating and forming a completely different attitude to fashion. And this is one of the most accurate phrases describing novelties of this season. Exhausted by seasonality, gender issues, ephemery, trend related questions, prevailing clichés called "fashion winds", the developers as if by agreement run away from stereotypes and shielded themselves from the system.
There is no longer space for a sweet dandy, that slaves to trends and things, heroism becomes irrelevant, while an individual story – a talented designer‘s style – is emphasized. You may say it‘s nihilistic? Slightly ironic? Sarcastic? However, currently individuality is considered as a trend of fashion. And the stories about collections are red not as a complex novel, but between the lines, interpreting in own way and without losing interest.
ITALIAN ROСKER CLASSIC
When we talked before the season about the lack of new trends in fashion in recent times, the question naturally arises - what is a source of inspiration for the developers themselves? There are no clear frames or phrases expressing a concept of inspiration. A bunch of different ideas, rather than a few clear lines, have become essential sources for the season‘s inspiration. So how to keep up with all the season's ideas? The answer is quite simple – an individual designer‘s style. For example, rocker classics do not seem to be surprising at all, but when interpreted by a distinct designer and, most importantly, a designer with a distinctive character, it becomes very interesting. So what kind of rocker story is being told by the Italians and how astonishing their intelligence is?
Piercing details on your shoes? Or maybe leather that looks like a broken piece of steel? A bit of a romantic step when the creator changed the rough leather with a very delicate velour? A rugged sole combined with glowing crystals? You say it‘s too bold? Yes, and this has led to a quite an interesting result – a collection turned into provocative performances in which forms, colors and statements write new rules of rocker fashion. All of this - Italian „Alexander Hotto“ and „Primabase“.
The creators of footwear have courageously stated to customers that the current fashion is important not because of tracking of specific trends, but because of individuality and artistic value. The fashion of footwear becomes a work of art intended to wear. Probably the most interesting thing is that the different designers chose different methods and forms of expression for this purpose: some of them sought to show an intellectual, conceptual side of fashion, while others showed aesthetic side, denying any sexuality standards, still others returned to the pragmatic luxury and others fell into the fantasy world. But none of these groups lost their essential idea - the individuality of the designer.
When a few seasons ago skull motifs were changed by „punk“ in Fru.it collection – it has become a real icon. As such iconic models have attracted not only a great customer interest, but also inspired the designer to keep up with these forms and details as well as to present new interpretation every season. The collection is dominated by laser-cut leather, aged white gold texture, velour, a bootleg with a stylish skull motif made of decorative, glowing crystals, metalized details, massive buckles, military-style soles. Duet - leather and velour, crepe finish and smooth calf leather, stretchy neoprene material and coat - bright, iconic, a timeless designer style.
This season ,,Laura Bellariva’’ collection is particularly marked by rocker culture and decor elements prevailing in the bikers‘ outfit – rivets. One of the most striking news is the fact that designers interpreted sports and rocker style in a modern way. Such a duet is quite unexpected, bold, but deliberately presented, delicately and ironically setting new trends in rocker clothing and contradicting popular opinion that this is a particularly heavy, massive and often cumbersome footwear. Neoprene or clear crepe rubber sole gives the collection a feeling of lightness not only visually.
Bohemian rocker in the street with a cup of coffee and ,,MOMA “ boots. It‘s like a contrast joining two different styles – romantic bohemian and sometimes aggressive and progressive rocker style. The collection is dominated by 80's style heels and platforms, rocker rivets and buckle details, retro-classic-like shoes. Stylistically it would look like this: ,,MOMA “ shoes, long Ethno style dress and thick leather rocker jacket with rivets.
It turns out that there is nothing heavier in the world of fashion than taking over the wheel of a fashion house for which a Genius with a capital letter created. However Sarah Burton is a person who knows better that anyone else how to deal with this inheritance and what to do to keep A. McQueen‘s name alive and thriving. The creator who had been working with the designer for over 15 years has understood his fantasies and sometimes even (non) utopian ideas.
Icon rivet decorated shoes, gothic stylish buckles and chains, aged metallic colour leather, London underground style crepe soles – all exclusive details of the McQ collection.
“Style is not about the clothes, it's about the individual” – Alexander McQueen.
Designer Alessandr dell'Acqua in the collection ,,N° 21” delicately interpreted rocker, militaristic, classical and sport styles. Sonds eclectic? Maybe so, but the result is exclusive works. Stylish details: rivets, hyperbolized and metal-coated lace holes, massive soles and decorative leather strap in front.
,,N° 21” – new in DOLITA!
One more striking example of individuality of the designer and the brand - ,,O.X.S” collections. Though every season new models appear in the collection ,,O.X.S” designers remain loyal to „Frank“ style shoes. Satin which dominated in summer was replaced by glossy leather and velour in the autumn collection.
,,My Buddha is Punk’’ director Andreas Hartmann. This title could be used to describe the Premiata autumn / winter collection. The collection the designer Grazziano Mazza conveys the entire Premada philosophy and Italian aesthetic. Striking, recognizable creator‘s touch - is often named as one of the most prominent Italian fashion representatives in the world.
The collection delicately combines punk-style details and Italian , ,La grande bellezza“ and , ,Viva la Vita” motifs through colors and textures (the collection is dominated by metalized leather, pony hair, shiny details).
In women‘s line military style soles are combined with velour and crepe finish. This season the ,,Premiata” women is a rock star who picks up a leather jacket, rather than a feather boa to a long silk dress. The ,,Premiata” man refused straight cut pants long ago, and matches shoes with laced jeans, narrow leather pants, leather jacket with sheepskin or even fur coat.
One theme and hundreds of its interpretations. What does all this mean? Apparently the time to realize that one vision is no longer possible and will not be anymore. Neither one prevailing silhouette, color or theme is possible. The trend of fashion of this century is not the depiction of cultural transformations, but the individualism of individual brands or creators. Although women‘s fashion offers more space and opportunities, man‘s fashion often has a greater incentive to take a more conceptual approach due to limited choices.
COWGIRL | Or rodeo in the city streets
Modern times romantic women meets autumn in the rhythm of rodeo. Another season's mood and the overall cultural atmosphere become interesting. This season footwear makers interpreted the cowboy style, and why did it appear so bright on fashion podiums once again? „Glamor Italia“ cowboy boots alone are named among the most popular this season and let us emphasize , not the way we used to see it earlier.
This story is about girls going on a dream road to the southwest of America. Like heroes of ,,Thelma & Luize” they go down the streets of the city as through “Route 66”. This is a modern interpretation of these heroes, which is infused with a cowboy spirit and rejecting clichés. Like a modern movie, which frames are filmed in a pastel roadside cafe.
Sock-like shoes are one of the brightest innovation for several seasons. It seems that the designers‘ immagination really has no limits. For example, the Italian Rocco Pistolesi, creating for the trademark ,,Rocco P.” gave a very modern spice for belowed cowboy models. Sock covering like a second skin and a massive cowboy heel.
,,Officine Creative’’ designer Luca Di Rosa this season has remained loyal to funnel shaped heels, buffalo leather, rich colours, massive zippers and takes it to the streets of the big city. Prevails rich green grape leaves, grape pink, black and bronze colours.
The ,,INK” collection is like the American roller coaster arrived in Italy. The details of American subculture and the work of Italian masters are connected here. Decorated with stars, aged metallized leather, laced jeans and white T-shirt matched to these shoes – stylish New Yorker image.
I live the American dream
You are the best thing I’ve seen,
You are not just a dream”. Madonna
FASHION LIKE ANN ARCHITECTURE
“Architecture is frozen music’’ – said J. Goethe. Even rephrasing this phrase and applying it to today‘s footwear fashion we can say that the footwear fashion becomes an architecture that dictates its own music.
One of the most brightest season‘s highlights are exceptional heels. The relationship between fashion and architecture becomes very close. As one of the most famous architects Zaha Hadid said in her book ,,This brutal world”: “Where are 360 ° so why stick to one” – designers in fashion are not limited to few shapes and lines.
,,Premiata” footwear is like a postmodern piece of art. Molten heel shapes look like outstanding architecture works or objects in the art gallery.
Like monolith ,,Bruno Bordese’’ collection is dominated by a massive platform. Strict, leathern, matt rubber –like details of urban style (zippers, buckles).
Rich and iconic ,,Halmanera” heels – this season ranging from intensive yellow, red, green to black colour. Sometimes there is just one perfect accent for everything to sound like an ideal tune. And the minimal ,,Halmanera” style with a special accent is another reflection of designers‘ individual design beyond any trends and time.
„Paloma Barcelo” models of this season are extremely architectural; some of them remind modern museum buildings in the capitals of the world.
Y-3 YOHJI YAMAMOTO + ADIDAS – another novelty in DOLITA
Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto inspired by a sense of urbanism and freedom along with ,,Adidas” company logo has chosen architecture as the main theme of the ,,Y-3” collection.
In his collection Yohji Yamamoto focuses on the shape and colour: from carbon black, asphalt grey to classic white-black combinations and fluorescence details. The collection is dominated by neoprene, rubber, matte leather, and extremely lightweight scrupulously molded Eva sole, like a perfect work of the architect, woven and knitted elastic fabrics. ,,Y-3” collection is a combination of 74-year-old designer‘s personality and philosophy.
FOCUS OF THE SEASON – LENGTH
A lot has changed since the XVth century when the boots were used for riding and fishing, until 1962 when the boots have become a podium necessity. Just take a look at the mid-seventies over the knee boots by „Balenciaga “ fashion house or „Yves Saint Laurent“ couture collections during presentation of which the models walked on the catwalks wearing over the knee alligator leather boots.
Today‘s fashion, customer needs, rhythm of life and technologies changed the very first prototypes of heavy and uncomfortable boots. A few seasons earlier this kind of boots was called „pants“, and today they could be called „socks“. This is because some designers changed elastic leather with a knitted sock or neoprene.
Constructive, architectural over the knee models by ,,Halmanera’’ and ,,Paloma Barcelo’’ are an ideal choice for those whose style ranges from minimalism to delicate constructivism. Combine these boots with an extended men‘s style satin jacket or “oversized” cashmere coat. The accent is length; the essential part of decor is heel. Let the boots themselves become the whole accent of the wardrobe.
Designers‘ imagination goes further than we can imagine. ,,Strategia” creators in their collection have been using tapestry fabric for several seasons. Fabrics printed with fine baroque or even Japanese weaves, delicate velour, suede brown, blue colors called ,,royal“, constructive, massive and, most important, comfortable heels. Extravagant models are decorated with scales.
Like a hero of a song ,,These boots are made for walking’’, walking along the city streets with ,,Mascaro” boots. In reality, just like in a movie, remember the unwritten rule – a corresponding image for a certain place.
„Blue Velvet“ (1986) – a cultish film by David Lynch film undoubtedly triggered discussions both among cinema fanatics, academic community and society. One would think what is common between film and fashion? But believe me, a real „blue Lynch‘s psychosis“ arose after the movie appeared on the screens – a renaissance of velvet has been predicted and the blue velvet works of fashion houses appeared on the covers of magazines.
Like many other great things in this world, velvet was born not anywhere else, but in Asia, Kashmir. Around 690‘s. The news about this exquisite fabric soon spread very widely and the velvet went more than a thousand kilometres to Cairo and settled here. Many years the capital of Egypt was the largest velvet manufacturing centre from where merchants rushed to the ports of Venice, Mali Empire, Al Andalusia and other with ships full of soft material.
When creating their collections footwear designers follow the rule „new is well forgotten old“. Modern technology, which makes this fabric extremely durable, allows it to be used in footwear manufacturing. Some designers use it as a decor element, others bravely offer the entire shoes covered with velvet.
Urbanistic, even slightly punk-style ,,Primabase’’ velvet – soft, bleached blue color, contrastingly combined with punk-style rivets, a massive velvet ribbon and militarist platform.
Sports shoes becomes like a part of ,,couture“: minimalist form, elegant laces and of course, velvet. Grey reflection of a crushed velvet gives an extraordinary gloss and reflection.
Royal blue colour velvet ,,Fiori Francesi” shoes printed with flowers as if from the Renaissance picture. Such presentation of velvet combined with massive shoe soles gives the collection elegance, sophistication and luxury.
Velvet bodies moving in the neon light and the disco rhythm in the movie are the peak of sexuality. The Italian ,,Vic Matie’’ inspired by this period offered massive forms of boots reminding those times.
,,Strategia’’ is inspired both by the disco classics and by the freedom of movement. From tight over the knee boots „ala disco“ to sports boots.
,,Premiata Sneakers’’ moved the sports shoes on a red carpet. I don‘t know how about you, but the title of H. K. Andersen‘s fairy-tale ,,The Emperor's New Clothes ” would fit here (to wear ,,Premiata Sneakers” shoes would be enough). Delicate refined colours, texture, gloss, delicate elegance, perfect Italian taste and style.
In the ,,Philippe Model” collection the velvet really comes into bloom. Bordeaux colours are enliven with embroidered flowers. Scrupulously selected and embroidered details look like Japanese art presented on silk. Flowers in autumn? Oh, yes!
FROM PEACOCK FEATHERS TO JAPAN
Like kabuki theatrical decorations presented on the sports shoes by ,,Philippe Model”. Each story is different: the sea world, swans, bloom of sakuras, mythological thunder dragon and its symbolic meaning. Decorative details create a mysterious Japanese mood. Patterns masterly embroidered on a leather, unique designer‘s motifs technologically transferred on a leather and embroidered velvet.
In Feng Shui philosophy peacock is one of the strongest talisman. Feather pattern resembles the eye – it is said to be a symbol of wisdom. Philosophical, but definitely true. ,,Premiata Sneakers’’ sports shoes with feathers look like an artwork.
FUR FOR YOUR LEGS
A naturally mummified Stone Age man, dead in 3300 BC, now known as the Alpine Traveller, was found on the Austrian-Italian border. He wore shoes made of bear fur, the upper part of which was wicker net made of lime tree splints covered with deer‘s leather and staffed with hay... Seems to be seen somewhere? Yes. This season you could see such „furry“ boots on the podium of Milan, New York, Paris, Copenhagen or other fashion weeks. Of course, the bear‘s fur was replaced by pony or cow fur, and brown colour was replaced by various colour palette. And let‘s object, it‘s far from Snowman shoes, but mega stylish boots.
From decorative fur details from ,,Fiori Francesi’’ collection, delicate elegant, yet sporty ,,Logan’’, delicate ,,My Grey’’ to punk-style and coloured ,,O.X.S”, ,,Queenery” and ,,Premiata Sneakers”. Fur prevails both in functional and decorative meaning.
Technocouture. This word could be applied to the current fashion of sports shoes.
Designers apply classic sport shoes and couture codes to young customers and perfectly feel street fashion pulse. Yes, there are women whose dinner clothes value could be measured by embroidered beads, however lately these beads are transferred on their shoes, rather than on their dresses. Moreover, they just choose a straight „small dress“.
,,Premiata Sneakers’’ this season focuses on details as never before. Patterns, various details, fabrics create a mysterious and secret mood of couture world. It takes us to the times of the past: feathers, velvet, beads, golden details, glossy leather...
Volumetric black ,,Laura Bellariva’’ flowers and black feathers. It‘s like a stopped shot from the movie ,,Black Swan”. These decorative details, aged gold, minimalistic footwear forms is a result of designers‘ fantasy.
Glossy fabric with lurex and royal grey semitones dominate in the ,,Pretty Ballerinas’’ collection of sport shoes. The retained urbanistic designer style and unexpected selection of fabrics create exclusive shoes.
Coco Chanel has said very well „ If you go out and think that something is wrong – take those necklace off ”. But keep the shoes that will create the whole image.
Some history. ,,Moonboots” were created by Giavera del Montello, Italy. Since 1980 they became a true fashion icon. Designer Giancarlo Zanatta after astronauts ‘landing on Moon was inspired by airships forms, technology and astronaut shoes and suits. Later this kind of shoes became a true legend, complementing fashion history.
Many fashion icons and pop stars liked these shoes. Due to excellent thermal properties, non-slip sole, comfort and ease, design and new technology this type of shoes is ideal for snowy winters in the city.
Novelty in DOLITA – ,,JOG DOG”
JOG DOG footwear manufacturers use innovative membrane fabrics. For these reasons:
– Moisture and windproof, "breathable" material. Membrane consists of small pores, each of which is approximately 20000 times smaller than the smallest water droplet, but 700 times bigger than the water vapour particle.
– The footwear remains dry. One hundred percent impregnated material is used. Items manufactured using this technology is treated in a vacuum chamber with a chemical agent that penetrates the product by creating a moisture-resistant microscopic layer ensuring protection against moisture.
– Resistance to frost and wind. Thermosetting materials and windproof fabrics are used.
Eugene Troch, a reviewer of the French fashion magazine ,,Vogue” responded in an interview on the upcoming season's footwear: “ What shoes will you be wearing next winter? Strange stilettos perhaps, red thigh boots, or maybe celestial moonboots. One thing’s for sure this season: shoes are works of art made for walking” . Fashion paradoxes and contradictions are another reason to get a closer look at it. But let’s talk about that next time.
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