A DIFFERENT BEGINNING | 18′-19′ AUTUMN/WINTER

It is said that without visiting Italy you will never understand the true meaning of “Made in Italy”. This iconic phrase reveals much more than just the guarantee of Italian quality. Today, this phrase signifies the country’s identity, history, and even emotion. “Made in Italy” is not just something imprinted on leather, it is a philosophy used by craftsmen and designers.

After starting to write about the main trends of the autumn/winter season, we realized that fashion has recently been rapidly furthering itself from the traditional term of trends. Fashion and trends are no longer just a silhouette, a color, a leather texture, details, or, in general, anything that could be called technical footwear sewing solutions. Today, these concepts are replaced by more abstract things: emotion, mood, social movements, lifestyle, or even gender equality issues.

These days, fashion is built on an incredible foundation. Designers offer from 4 to 18 collections per season! This may sound complicated but designers refuse instantaneous ideas and turn to more substantial, less time-dependent sources of inspiration. Fashion, art, and culture are interconnecting right in front of our eyes.

Fashion likes strange concepts and radicalism, paraphrasing concepts and trends. For example, a few seasons ago, the ‘80s and ‘90s came in style, and it looked like kitsch. However, they now suggest a different aesthetic with a hint of irony. If the late ‘90s are the symbol of the neon culture, then designers are going all in with it and waiting for a win. And, most likely, they will undoubtedly win.

Ultimately, what we used to consider “ugly fashion” is beating all sale records today. Fashion critics say comfort and, more precisely, the boom in sneakers is basically no longer a trend because comfort in fashion should be a matter of course.

So symbolically, the BEGINNING of the season does not start from innovative ideas or futuristic forms but rather from turning back to the past. This is demonstrated by the end of the Minimalist era both in our closets and in our lives. The growth of interest in punks, ravers, and goths suggests that the modern man or woman no longer wants to give in to a certain cult of youth. Instead, even older people can experiment with fashion and at least indirectly get to know subcultures.

The new BEGINNING of Retro classic

One of the most interesting trends of the season was the attempt by designers to reinvent the classic bicycle - to redefine the color black. Designers are giving black a new look: through shape, leather texture, fur, decor details.

To portray the style of the ‘80s, Laura Bellariva designers combine a low geometric heel with metal buckles. One of the brightest tendencies of the season has been reborn - a round nose. Some designers refuse Scandinavian minimalism and seek inspiration from retro furniture and interior details.

LAURA BELLARIVA models

It's no secret that the first glance at lacquered leather shoes can be skeptical. However, there are many alternatives and choices: ankle boots, high top boots, slip-ons, sneakers, platforms, clogs.

If we had to name the most prominent brand inspired by Retro classic, it would definitely be the Spanish Chie Mihara. Oval geometry predominates in the collection, leather is combined with velour, ornamentation of the ‘80's interior appears.

CHIE MIHARA models

Footwear decor details of this period are particularly dominant: a strip with a buckle over the instep, cut flowers, and peplum details.

CHIE MIHARA model

Italian brand Halmanera is offering their clients to stand out. Ocean-green wrinkled leather lacquered shoes with the modern ‘80s style. The iconic colorful heel and a massive decor detail in the front: these are just a few details symbolizing a new beginning in your wardrobe. This reflects not only a fashion trend but a general prevailing mood and emotion which is complemented by rich colors and heel shapes dominant in the collection.

HALMANERA models

Italian Ixos is dictating a new beginning with a hint of irony. Believe us, when fashion raises ambiguous questions and emotions, it wins. This is often the actual goal of fashion. A reconstructed Retro style in the Ixos collection begins with color and ends with details. Nail polish red, eyeshadow pearl blue, retro yellow, matte black, and lacquer are dominant here.

IXOS models

IXOS model

IXOS model

A different BEGINNING of PVC and patent leather

Rewritten vulgarity rules. Today, fashion is incarnating what seemed too bold or shocking at first. It’s just about time to talk about transparency and lacquer in the voice of fashion trends.

FRU.IT and IXOS models

But first, here’s some history. The history of patent leather is somewhat different. In 1973, hand-polished leather which was given gloss with a special ointment became more water-resistant and was named “handmade patent leather”. The actual manufacturing process of lacquered leather was invented back in 1799 when paint and oil coating was used to process leather. In 1805, an even more interesting technology was patented which used linseed, whale oil, horse balm, and soot. In 1822, lacquered leather appeared in the mass market for the first time and remained popular to these days.

History of PVC

LAURA BELLARIVA models

The history of PVC is somewhat different. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) was first mentioned in 1926 when scientist Waldo Semon was conducting research looking for synthetic alternatives to rubber. It was thought that the elastic gel-like material would be suitable for bonding rubber to metal but it soon became clear that PVC was not only water-resistant but also suitable for coating other materials. For example… for shower curtains, which became the first example of W. Semon’s PVC use.

O.X.S model

PVC is presented in a particularly modern way in an O.X.S collection’s model. A highly cosmic canvas coated with paint through which a textile sock is visible.

PVC and the cosmic boom of lacquered leather ended along with the so-called Cosmic era. Today, these two materials get a new BEGINNING.

There are lots of lacquered leather examples in collections. From smooth as ice to wrinkled as paper. Not to mention the colors. Lacquered leather particularly predominates in Laura Bellariva, Halmanera, Ixos, Premiata, Pretty Ballerinas, Mascaro, and Vic Matie collections.

VIC MATIE models

HALMANERA and LAURA BELLARIVA models

HALMANERA models

Inspired by mountains, snow, and mountaineering

It seems so. If not directly, at least stylistically combining a rough mountaineering sole with soft leather, laces reminiscent of a climbing rope with a shiny gold color, and using details similar to climbing hooks as decor details. This is how a new trend called “transformer shoes” was born. Sounds pretty futuristic? Of course. However, believe us, these shoes will thrive all season long. Wondering why? Well, they feature an exceptional design, comfort, durability, character, and a generally trendy mood. What else could you possibly need?

ELENA IACHI models

ELENA IACHI and BRUNO BORDESE models

A lot of models this season are similar to ski boots or ice skates. Designers suggest combining these types of shoes with wool socks to emphasize the general feeling. Italian Attimonelli’s are completely exclusive with their eclectic design as they combine elements that seem uncombinable. Modern military/mountaineering footwear has gained a new color: soft calfskin is combined with neoprene. The collection is complemented by lacquer, pistachio, and retro red colors, wool, rubber-coated leather. The nose is rounder, the soles are more massive, metalized details are drastically enlarged, thus creating a massive but, make no mistake, extremely comfortable and practical footwear image. There is no longer space for sweetness and dandiness. Freedom and ambitiousness thrive here.

ATTIMONELLI'S models

ATTIMONELLI'S model

 

According to Z. Freud, we first identify a person whom we meet by their gender. However, not in 2018. Sexuality is losing its boundaries and fashion is remaking them in their own way. A woman leaves more and more space in her closet for a uniform-inspired jacket or suit, while high heels are kept only for special occasions. A person’s lifestyle and everyday pace dictate certain fashion and comfort standards, as well as their interrelationship and dialogue. People aren’t even surprised anymore to see an entire designer’s collection for women featuring only a dominant black color and not a drop of traditional women’s attire.

However, the Bruno Bordese trademark refutes all stereotypes. Today, their client values not only an exclusive design, the philosophy of the trademark, and style, but also innovative ideas as she could easily combine massive combat boots with sparkly tights and remain self-confident. Creating an individual style is often a very challenging task. However, these types of models do not depend on time or short-term trends.

BRUNO BORDESE models

A certain fashion manifesto reveals itself here - feminism, fashion, and feminism again. Gender equality questions are being raised. A new approach to feminism is being formed by the most influential magazines in the world. They are highlighting the fact that feminism has nothing to do with a woman’s phobia to adopt certain qualities that are traditionally defined as feminine. Taking care of the way she looks, staying up-to-date with trends, and having the ability to improve taste does not mean sacrificing feminine strength. Fashion opens up plenty of roads and opportunities both for men and women.

Looking back into the history of footwear, there was one problem that grew sharper and sharper. Because of the huge amount of power men had, women were forced to meet strict standards of appearance - only to demonstrate a certain social status or to appear attractive to those of the opposite gender. A woman’s feet were squeezed into sharp narrow shoes, often uncomfortable high heels and she had to wear tight dresses and corsets that were way too narrow. Not to mention the fashion aspects of the Chinese and their tiny shoes.

Designers are increasingly releasing women from established beauty standards, so they present a woman wearing combat boots as much more sexy and, hopefully, more attractive than a woman who constantly wears uncomfortable high heels secretly hoping to take them off as soon as possible.

Italian trademark Premiata has been denying distorted beauty standards for women from the very start. Hybrid models predominated ever since Graziano Mazza touched the first models: high heels covered with cowhide, heeled Oxford shoes, high top boots with military soles and massive platforms. The brand has not lost its identity or style. The autumn/winter collection is full of contrasts: a fur motif appears, massive buckles are combined with soft shapes, punk clothing features white and militaristic motifs.

PREMIATA models

PREMIATA model

Designers Yang Chao and Keisuke Ota were inspired by Japanese music, nature, and Fuji vegetation. In collaboration with a mountaineering association, the designers created a collection that connects Japanese design with functionality. The extremely strong and durable sole is combined with textile and leather. Here’s how their hybrid shoes look: mountaineering shoe soles, knitted socks, laces, and the shape of classic sneakers.

FLOWER MOUNTAIN models

Laura Bellariva combines militaristic shoes with rocker details this season. Lacquered leather, raised rivets, metal buckles, and heels appear. Also, neoprene strongly predominates.

LAURA BELLARIVA model

LAURA BELLARIVA model

Fru.it has added fur, velour, zippers, and scrunched leather to its collection. Hybrid fashion is extremely noticeable. A massive, lightweight rubber sole is combined with lacquered leather and soft colored fur is combined with a massive and pretty rough sole.

FRU.IT models

Rocco Pistonesi, the designer of trademark Rocco P., said this after being asked about his work:

“I love the word “nostalgic” because nostalgia, which is tied to deep emotions and memories, never goes out of fashion and includes those who lived and live intensely and ambitiously. This is precisely why I'm trying to create on the foundation of those shapes and forms that never get old - to the contrary, they are being more and more valued with passing time.

When the shape is perfect, all that is needed is to purify it as much as possible. I’d say that purity and clarity are the cornerstone of my brand and also make it exclusive. The creative process is dictated precisely by looking for these traits, pursuing completeness, and refusing unnecessary elements.”

Precisely this trademark distinguishes itself from others with its sewing traditions and its never-ending but, paradoxically, always-fashionable design that erased the mark of inequality between HIM and HER long ago.

ROCCO P. models

In the Strategia collection, traditional mountaineering footwear and even inventory motifs are dominant. The laces are like a climbing rope, the softened top part of the shoes is a technical solution for climbers meant for ensuring comfort while climbing. The sole is massive, militaristic.

Female fashion designers historically gained more freedom for self-expression and they also got major support from the industry to design clothing for a woman who wishes to wear something that fits her lifestyle. Silvia Curzi, who has been designing for the brand Vic Matie, has been raising feminism ideas for many seasons and openly declares this in her work. Elements such as heels or ribbons are hyperbolically distorted and matched with strange, rather massive shapes. Leather, rubber, wool, and textile are dominant here. Colors that appear include nail polish red, black lacquer, and sprayed and aged silver. A comfortable, light rubber sole is ideal for our season’s weather.

VIC MATIE models

VIC MATIE models

Voile Blanche has presented mountaineering footwear interpretations in their sneaker collection. Earthly colors, a massive geometric sole that ensures not only maximum comfort and thermoregulation qualities but also great surface adhesion are dominant here. Overall, brands creating exclusively sporty shoes are moving on to another creative stage where not only leisure forms are dominant in collections but also popular trends and even a formal, fancy stage.

Sneakers with fur? Oh, yes! This is the perfect choice for those who can’t imagine their lives or casual wardrobes without light and comfortable sneakers.

New male forms for HER or fashion without gender

Male-styled shoes for women. This trend of the autumn/winter season is an invasion into a man’s closet! Although this time, it’s somewhat unusual. It seems that no one is specifically trying to highlight femininity. On the contrary - designers are hyperbolizing and playing with larger, harsher shapes and proportions and the female shoe is almost turned into a male shoe. A whole lot has gone on in the history of footwear and this is reminding us of a good novel in which people are at risk of wearing inappropriate shoes with heels too high or breaking the established trends... However, one of the most significant characters of the novel is the man himself and some of his wardrobe details in a woman's closet.

LEMARGO models

But why men’s shoes exactly? World War I (from 1914 to 1918) changed people’s lives and put them in the most dramatic situations. Men went to fight in a wide variety of European countries, and women remained to work in factories. The growing independence of women and social change also had a great influence on their wardrobe. Naturally, the footwear’s heel became smaller, laces appeared, the nose became rounder, and the shape of the shoe became rougher.

What pops into your head when you hear the word “unisex”? Gray, black, boring? Shapeless things? Well, everything is different these days. Today, ”unisex“ is returning both on podiums and store shelves.

POMME D'OR models

From an emancipated and strict woman to an ambitious and heroic one. From the list of trends, militaristic combat boots, classic Brogues, and Oxford shoes are not far off either.

O.X.S models

O.X.S models

This season, Brogues, Oxford shoes, and ankle boots are particularly dominant. However, their shape is complemented by a massive sole and heel. This type of footwear is especially noticeable in the Vic Matie and Lemargo collections. Men’s ankle boots (laced, Chelsea boots, slip-ons) predominate in Fru.it, Laura Bellariva, Moma, Pantanetti, O.X.S, collections, as well as in other trademarks.  

POMME D'OR models

MOMA models

THE LAST CONSPIRACY models

LAURA BELLARIVA models

VIC MATIE models

FUTURISM is in the PRESENT

The present is a treasure. Live in the present. Present, the future, and futurism? Time is now. Sounds philosophic? Maybe, but the future is a peculiar form of futurism.

Y-3 BY YOHJI YAMAMOTO models

What characterizes futurism and fashion? Unexpected forms? Yes. Non-standard materials? Yes. Technological solutions? Absolutely.

It seems that massive sneakers come from the “Star Wars” movies. Such shoes give people youthfulness. First off, they’re super comfortable. For the modern silhouette, it seems to us, the most important thing is looking modern, bright, youthful, and revealing the fashion of those born in this century because it is their opinion that designers think of when figuring out what kind of fashion prevails today and will prevail in the future.

Y-3 BY YOHJI YAMAMOTO models

Futurism representative Y-3 is much more colorful this season. Here, a rich yellow and red unexpectedly appear within black and white. For autumn? Yes. The author’s style and trademark’s authenticity are highlighted by the shape. The convex and geometric sole is reminiscent of a spaceship. The technological rubber foam sole provides maximum comfort. In collaboration with Adidas, designer Yohji Yamamoto wipes off the dust of old established fashion standards and offers today’s market particularly modern shoes and accessories.

Y-3 BY YOHJI YAMAMOTO models

A different RED history

Over 500 years before our era, red shoes were a symbol of supreme luxury. Such shoes were worn by aristocrats as they were the only ones able to afford leather coated with the most expensive paint - Tyrian purple. The paint was made from red mollusca bodies. In the paintings of Etruscan graves, which archeologists discovered, wealthy men were portrayed wearing sharp and narrow red shoes.

 ELENA IACHI and THE LAST CONSPIRACY models

Overall, looking back in history, red shoes have appeared in numerous fairy tales, movies, songs, musicals. This season, the color red gets a new shade. The Pantone Color Institute introduces the color of autumn - ”Super Swatch”. The color is a mix between nail polish red and rose.

PREMIATA SNEAKERS model

This color dominates in the collection of Italian trademark Fiori Francesi. The luxurious red color is materialized by suede and extra soft calfskin. A rounded, high, dark red heel gives character to high top boots.

FIORI FRANCESI models

The color red appears in nearly every Chie Mihara collection. This season, femininity is highlighted not only by shape but also by peplum details.

CHIE MIHARA model

CHIE MIHARA model

Red in the Halmanera collection is pretty much the identity of the trademark. This season, punk decor details predominate - metal rings and rivets. The unusual way of painting leather with an ombre effect gives the color red a new look.

 HALMANERA  model

HALMANERA model

This season, the color red has taken over fashion podiums and shelves with a bang. It is imperious, rich, deep, presented in modern shoe forms with different materials combined. It has also appeared in Premiata Sneakers, Philippe Model, O.X.S, Mascaro, Strategia, and Vic Matie collections.

VIC MATIE model

PHILIPPE MODEL model

A new BEGINNING of the color white

The white shoe boom that started back in 2000 is now getting a new BEGINNING. The only question is, was it worth waiting 18 years? Perhaps. For many years, white shoes were seen as something only tasteless people wear. Well, paradoxically, the most-sold shoes in the world are white sneakers. But what about ankle boots or high top boots? There are many questions and even more answers. Here are the best two: fashion podium news where white shoes are matched with everything just like black shoes, and combinations by fashion bloggers in social networks.

HALMANERA model

Today, white shoes fall into the “must-have” or “most-wanted” lists. They are easily combined with classic pants, light dresses, leather jackets, sporty silhouettes, and raincoats. This season, Rocco P., The Last Conspiracy, O.X.S Rubber Soul, Halmanera, Premiata offer white shoes in their collections.

 

O.X.S RUBBER SOUL model

PREMIATA model

THE LAST CONSPIRACY modelis

ROCCO P. models

Fur and shoes. Or shoes and fur?

With the huge amount of fur this season, it’s no wonder that we’re wondering whether we should say shoes with fur or fur with shoes. This season, fur predominates not only in high top boots but in… sandals. Yes. Designers are offering to wear them during the beginning of autumn with some fashionable socks or sparkly tights.

Phoenicians and other ancient Mediterranean civilizations traded fur. High-quality fur (including sable) was discovered in the 17th century when Russia began expansion to the East of the Ural Mountains to Siberia and the Pacific Ocean regions. The technologies used in the fur industry make it possible to tweeze and trim the fur, giving it a wider range of colors and shades, as well as a variety of textures. Depending on the model, the fur is tightened, moisturized, and softened until the desired shape is reached. Since all fur is unique, fur sewing cannot be automated. Every single detail is sewn to the shoe by hand.

History of fur

During winter or autumn, it’s pretty paradoxical to see sandals or slippers with fur in the newest collections. It’s like fashion is no longer subject to seasons. The boundaries between autumn and spring are fading. The pace of life, traveling, lifestyle, and the environment around us dictate different guidelines for creating footwear fashion. In the streets of Milan or New York, it’s no longer shocking to see a girl wearing a fur coat and sandals with open toes during the winter. Clogs, loafers with open heels, and low-heeled sandals with fur on the inside and outside have replaced old-fashioned shoes.

PREMIATA  models

Today, we can find many similar types of shoes but Italian professionals are offering a truly exclusive design. Designer Graziano Mazza started the trend of high heels with fur and this season, he offers his clients clog-styled slip-on platformed shoes with fur. His collection also has a number of distinct fur elements that decorate the shoes.

 

PREMIATA models

Premiata Sneakers and Voile Blanche met the needs of sneaker lovers and did not leave them out to dry. Here, sheep fur, matched with differently colored and printed leather and textile predominate.

 

PREMIATA SNEAKERS models

VOILE BLANCHE models

In the Laura Bellariva collection, bold decisions are made: platformed sandals are covered with fur on the inside and outside, slip-on shoes have furry decorative details and massive crystals on top. The quite eclectic shoes inspired by King Louis's time will get everyone hooked. Beaver fur also dominates in the sneaker line, giving them an exceptionally elegant and modern look.

LAURA BELLARIVA models

LAURA BELLARIVA model

In Fru.it collections, a massive, bon-bon fur motif is dominant. The uniqueness of the collection is highlighted by painted fur combined with velour.

FRU.IT model

FRU.IT model

The “Jog Dog” models or the so-called “Moon Boots” have a vivid colorful fur motif. The collection is enlivened by rich blue, graphite, and sandy colors.  

 

JOG DOG model

JOG DOG models

Dad shoes | Or somewhat of a fashion protest

Sometimes, certain seemingly strange fashion tendencies appear and you really need to think hard in order to understand them. Oversized clothes, faded loose jeans, dyed hair, large glasses, vintage signs, checked motifs, a massive shoe platform, and athletic outfit details - all of this seems to have already happened in the past. This is how our parents looked. However, designers are designating this as a new BEGINNING.

FRU.IT models

The latest muse of weekly fashion is not a supermodel but your dad. Dad sneakers appeared on designers’ podiums this summer and they have already ensured their spot for autumn with the very first model. Naturally, the question is: which clothes can I match this footwear with? Wide jeans? A vintage sweater? Well, you can match them with almost anything. Designers combined these shoes with jeans, raincoats, jackets, coats, classic suits, light dresses, and leather jackets. By the way, this fashion trend is like a protest against glamorous fashion and the old established rules of society. This season, designers are turning to… the working people. This footwear fashion is inspired precisely by work shoes!

PREMIATA SNEAKERS models

FRU.IT models

“Daddy sneakers” and industrial motifs dominate in Fru.it, Attimonelli’s, Premiata Sneakers collections. Massive, cluttered-looking soles are combined with modern shapes. This creates an industrial mood and the general backbone of the collection.

ATTIMONELLI'S models

BRUNO BORDESE models

Strange and fascinating. Fashion designers have turned off all of the brakes. The fashion of footwear has changed and lives in a new era which is somewhat of a modern Renaissance. Today, if you want to look fashionable, you have to look “cool”. Everyone wants to be “cool”. Currently, shoes of rebel-like trends are popular: a mix between cowboy-styled high top boots, crocs, sneakers, and massive platforms. Diversity is no longer an alternative but the future.

According to fashion critics, the backbone of the Italian fashion week, “Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana” should listen up as this new collection, as well as the 2019 spring/summer collection that ended a few weeks ago, is significantly different from last year. More than 90% of dominant models in collections were of a sporty silhouette. The question is, where has the true spirit of “Made in Italy” along with Italian dandiness and class gone? The answer is: nowhere. This is simply a new chapter in Italian fashion. The true “Made in Italy” flows in the veins of Italians.

The new ‘90s image is Italian Retro classic in the modern world.

All mentioned designers and their brands can be found here: DOLITASHOES.COM 


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